Installing security cameras can seem like a daunting task, but with a bit of knowledge and preparation, it can be a smooth process. In this section, we’ll walk you through what you need to know about security camera installation in Australia. Whether you’re considering DIY installation for a home system or hiring professionals for a bigger setup, understanding the key steps and considerations will help ensure your cameras work effectively and comply with local guidelines. Let’s break down the process from planning to final test.
Before drilling any holes, take some time to plan. Identify the areas you want to cover and the type of cameras suitable for each location. Common camera placement spots include: front door, back door, garage/carport, perimeter of the house, and interior main areas (like a hallway or living room looking at entryways). For businesses, add points like cash registers, entrances, stock rooms, etc. Walk around your property and imagine where an intruder might try to break in or where critical events happen.
Consider camera field of view: most standard cameras have about a 80-120 degree field of view. Use wide-angle cameras to cover broad areas like a backyard, and narrower or higher-detail cameras to cover, say, your driveway (to capture license plates) or front gate.
Also plan how you will run cables (if wired) or ensure power. If you’re using wireless cameras, plan power outlet access or if battery, how you will recharge them periodically. For wired cameras (PoE or analogue), plan the cable path from camera to the recorder – usually through roof eaves into the ceiling space and then down to wherever your recorder/monitor will be (often a study or closet). Aim to minimize visible cables outside to keep things neat and tamper-resistant.
In Australia, it’s legal to install CCTV on your property, but ensure your cameras mostly view your premises. It’s okay if a camera incidentally captures a bit of the street or a neighbor’s front verge, but avoid pointing cameras directly into neighbors’ yards or through their windows – that can lead to privacy complaints. When installing, adjust angles accordingly. In some states, it’s advised (or required in commercial settings) to put up a notice that CCTV is operating, especially if you have cameras covering areas where the public might be (like a camera covering your front porch which also views the sidewalk). For home use, notices aren’t typically mandated, but it’s often appreciated if you let close neighbors know “I’ve set up some cameras for security that cover my front and back – just FYI.” This openness can prevent misunderstandings.
1. Choosing Wired vs Wireless Installation:
Wired Cameras (PoE or DVR setups): Installation involves mounting the camera and running a cable back to the recording/storage device. For PoE (Power over Ethernet) IP cameras, a single Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet cable provides both power and data. For analog (coax) cameras, you’ll run a coaxial cable and a separate power cable (though Siamese cables combine both). Plan to drill small holes through walls or eaves to pass these cables through. You’ll likely route them through the ceiling cavity. In a single-story home with accessible roof space, this is straightforward if a bit dusty; in double-story, you may need to get cables down wall cavities which can be tricky – sometimes external conduit is used neatly down an exterior wall into the ground floor. If you’re uncomfortable with running cables, consider hiring a licensed cabler (in Australia, fixed cabling should be done by someone licensed for communications cabling). However, many DIY kits are plug-and-play with pre-terminated cables that you can run yourself if done carefully.
Wireless Cameras: “Wireless” typically means they transmit video wirelessly, but many still need power via a cable to an outlet (unless battery-powered). So for wireless cameras, installation is often simpler regarding data (no video cable to run to recorder; they’ll connect to your Wi-Fi or a base station). But you do need to mount them and supply power. If battery-operated, you avoid wiring altogether – you just mount the camera (often with screws or even strong adhesive for lighter models) and you’re done. Battery cams are easiest for install – just remember you’ll need to take them down to charge or recharge via solar panels occasionally. If your wireless cams plug in, you need an outlet nearby; you might have to drill a small hole to pass the power adapter cable through a wall if mounting outside with the plug inside (common to do that for weatherproofing, since outlets outdoors need to be weather rated). Always use outdoor-rated extension cords/outlets if you have to.
2. Mounting Cameras Securely: Use the appropriate mounting hardware that comes with the camera. Typically, it will be screws and wall plugs. For timber surfaces, you may not need the plugs (just screws). For brick or concrete, you’ll need to drill into the masonry with the correct size drill bit for the wall plugs, insert them, then screw the camera mount in. Aim for a high placement (at least 3 meters / 9-10 feet off ground if possible for outdoor cams), out of easy reach to avoid vandalism. Point the camera in the desired direction and tighten the swivel/adjustment so it stays put. If it’s a heavy camera, make sure you’re drilling into something solid (brick or a stud in siding) – if just into plaster or soft material, use appropriate anchors that can hold the weight and consider the camera might face wind if outside.
For indoor cameras, many are simply placed on shelves which is fine (no install needed). But if wall/ceiling mounting inside, same principles apply.
Pro-tip: Mount one camera at a time and test it (even temporarily connect to your system and view the angle via a phone/laptop) before drilling all holes and finalizing. This ensures you’re happy with coverage, angle, and image quality for that spot. It’s easier to adjust position when you haven’t fully run cables or drilled multiple holes. Have someone hold the camera while you check the view, if possible.
3. Wiring and Connections: If running cables, keep them tidy. Use cable clips or zip ties to secure excess cable length. Avoid running video cables next to high-voltage power cables parallel for long distances – it can cause interference (for analog) or in rare cases network issues. A brief crossing is fine, but don’t run them hugging a 240V electrical line for meters. If you must run along such lines in walls, consider shielded Cat6 and keep some separation. Also, comply with Australian standards: generally, low-voltage comms cables should be separated from mains cables (there are guidelines, usually 50mm separation or a physical barrier).
Once cables are run, connect them to the camera (most external cameras have a short pigtail lead – connect your extension to that and usually secure the connection inside a weatherproof junction box or tape it well with self-amalgamating tape to keep moisture out). Connect the other end to your recorder or PoE switch, or power supply as needed. Label cables if you have many, to know which camera is which – saves headache later.
If all is connected, power on the system and ensure each camera feed appears. It’s easier to fix a wiring issue during install than to finish everything and then troubleshoot a blank feed.
4. Adhering to Australian Regulations: We touched on privacy – keep that in mind. Also, if you’re installing cameras on an apartment exterior or common area, you need to check with body corporate – generally, you cannot put cameras covering common property without permission. For standalone homes, just be respectful of neighbors’ privacy. It’s not usually illegal to capture footage that includes public areas (like the street) or a bit of a neighbor’s driveway, but if your neighbor complains and feels you’re invading privacy, it could become a civil issue. Best practice: angle cameras to focus on your property. Many camera brackets allow some fine tuning – use that to minimize intrusion beyond your boundary.
Another Aussie-specific note: if you have audio recording on cameras, be cautious. Recording private conversations without consent can breach surveillance device laws. Many home cameras do have microphones. It’s generally okay if it’s part of security and not being misused (like you’re not deliberately eavesdropping on neighbors). If concerned, some systems allow disabling audio recording.
For business installations accessible by the public, clearly display CCTV in use signage as required by privacy guidelines. Also ensure your system complies with data storage and security (under Aus Privacy Act, if you’re a business of a certain size dealing with personal info, you have obligations – usually not an issue for small shops, but larger entities should handle footage as sensitive data).
6. Professional vs DIY: If at any point you feel uncomfortable with installation tasks (like getting on a tall ladder, drilling into brick, crawling in a hot attic running cable), it may be worth hiring professionals. Professional installers in Australia not only mount cameras, but can help angle them optimally, set up the recording system, configure your remote viewing, and ensure the install looks neat (using conduits, junction boxes, etc., for a cleaner finish). They also know the regulations and best practices well. Yes, it costs more, but especially for more complex jobs or if you want guarantee of coverage, pros can be worth it. Get quotes from a couple of licensed security installation companies if you go that route.
7. System Setup and Configuration: Once installed, you have to configure the system:
Adjust each camera’s settings in the recorder (brightness, contrast, motion detection areas if using NVR software for alerts, etc.). For example, you might mask out a tree that sways in the wind from triggering motion recording constantly.
Set up your recording schedule – most people do continuous recording + motion flags, or motion-only recording to save space. Decide how you want it. For security, continuous is safest but uses more HDD space; motion is fine for most and easier to review events.
Set up remote access: If you want to view cameras from your phone, you’ll either use the NVR’s app (scanning a QR code often to add it) or set up port forwarding/DDNS for older systems. Many modern ones use P2P cloud which is simpler – just ensure you change default passwords on the NVR and cameras to prevent unauthorized access. Australian internet connections often have decent upload now with NBN, but make sure you have enough bandwidth to stream your camera feeds off-site. You can adjust substream quality for remote viewing to keep it smooth.
Position adjustments: After a day or two of trial, you might notice a camera needs slight re-aiming (maybe that camera gets direct sunrise glare at 6am – you might tilt it down a touch). Fine-tune as needed.
Final Thoughts: Installing security cameras in Australia is quite manageable and similar to elsewhere, with the added need to factor in our climate and any local law nuances. By planning properly, using the right tools and methods, and perhaps seeking professional help when needed, you can have a reliable camera system watching over your property.
Take your time to do it right, because a well-installed camera system will serve you for years. Once it’s up, you’ll likely feel a significant boost in peace of mind, seeing your home or business is under watch even when you’re not around. Happy installing!
